Before teaching the cleaning method, please make sure that you have **real sheepskin boots** (not ordinary sheep shearing). Use your fingers to push aside the inner hair and observe the leather: – **Real sheepskin**: The wool and the leather are naturally connected, the leather is translucent white, and it is tough when pulled lightly – **Imitation**: Most of them are glued together, and the leather is dry, hard and yellowzBefore teaching the cleaning method, please make sure that you have **real sheepskin and fur snow boots** (not ordinary sheep shearing). Use your fingers to push aside the inner hair and observe the leather:

– **Real fur and leather**: The wool and the leather are naturally connected, the leather is translucent white, and it is tough when pulled lightly

– **Imitation**: Most of them are glued together, and the leather is dry, hard and yellow.

Last winter, a customer soaked the sheepskin boots stained with hot pot oil in hot water, and the boots shrank by two sizes when they were delivered. This kind of tragedy stems from three common mistakes: – **Soaking in hot water**: causes the fibers of sheepskin to shrink (skin shrinkage rate is as high as 30%) – **Drying in the sun**: causes sebum loss, leather brittleness and cracking – **Spraying detergent directly**: Excessive chemical concentration corrodes the leather surface

**Step 1: Pre-cleaning** – Use a **special fluff brush** to brush away dust – Focus on dealing with mud and sand along the edge of the shoe (tap and shake off with a hard brush)

**Step 2: Controllable wetting of sheepskin** – Dip a sponge in **cold water** and squeeze until half wet, pat the sheepskin shoe surface – **Soaking is prohibited**! The water content of the inner wool should be controlled below 40%

**Step 3: Precisely remove the stains on the sheepskin** A[Oil stain] –> B(Apply with a makeup brush dipped in soap powder and foam) C[Mud stain] –> D(Dry in the shade and gently rub with an eraser) D[Blood stain] –> E(Cold water + hydrogen peroxide cotton pad pressed)

**Step 4: Deeply clean the sheepskin** – Dilute the professional fur cleaner with cold water at a ratio of 1:10 – Wipe in one direction with a sponge instead of a brush (avoid damage to the hair scales)

**Step 5: Rinse and dry the sheepskin** – Replace**three basins of cold water** and rinse gradually – **Press and dry** (no rubbing and twisting!)

**Step 6: Dry the sheepskin** scientifically – Invert the boots in a ventilated place (sole facing up) – Plug the shoe mouth with a breathable bamboo charcoal bag** to absorb moisture and prevent mildew – **72 hours of natural drying** (away from heating/sunlight)

(1) **Does the sheepskin become hard and smelly? ** – Cause: Sweat and grease penetrate the leather – Solution: – Pour a mixture of baking soda and cornstarch (1:3) into the boots – After standing for 6 hours, use a strong vacuum cleaner to suck it out

(2) **Does the sheepskin become hard after drying? ** – Cause: Sebum loss – Repair: – Apply mink oil care cream to sheepskin – Massage with fingertips until absorbed

(3) **Tips for protecting sheepskin in rainy days** – Spray fluorine waterproofing agent on sheepskin after cleaning – Sheepskin forms a transparent film but **does not clog pores**

(1) **Sheepskin nourishment**: Apply a thin layer of special care lotion (focus on applying to the creases along the shoe)

(2) **Sheepskin moth-proofing**: Wrap cedar wood blocks with gauze and put them into the boot shaft

(3) **Shaping storage**: Insert a corrugated paper support tube** into the sheepskin boot shaft (to prevent deformation)

These sheepskin boots with ingenuity deserve to be treated gently. When you see the cleaned and dried sheepskin boots become fluffy and soft again, and shine like silk in the morning light – at that moment, you will understand what I mean by “dialogue with leather”.